Since there’s been a recent swell in new readers I thought this might be an appropriate time to give one of my ginchy disclaimers: If you’re a well skilled Expert or other highly rated shooter, your time might be better spent elsewhere. I wouldn’t even remotely label myself as a coach, Master (actually I’m an Expert) or an all around Zen thinking bullseye shaman. If anything, I might best be described as a highly motivated wannabe who simply loves the game. These are my personal observations and it would be wise to seek advice from multiple sources.
My friend Brian has used the description of the North Pole (as the trigger) and its implied image to illustrate how to properly apply finger pressure. Well, I don’t take exception to Brian’s visual sketch, just the way it’s delivered to his students.
The North Pole can be a good representation, just think of what a child’s imaginary North Pole would look like: It’s this pole sticking out of the ice, looks a little like a barber pole with a knob on top. But now you need to picture the entire Earth attached to it, a ball or globe with a stick vertically protruding from its top.

Your task is to keep the ball from moving or rolling over as you depress the knob on top of the pole until the sear releases the hammer … and then some more for follow through.
If you think about it, it
isn’t an easy task; any movement, no matter how slight, in any direction other than plumb (
inline) will slightly rotate the ball. The only effective way to depress the weight from the pole to the ball is straight down. Now, I’m not telling you something you
didn’t already know. Even though, many shooters windup having more errors just prior to and during the release, where many shots are thrown off just as the sear is released. Correcting the direction of the trigger pressure during the pull will be disappointing for most. Steering the trigger is a hazard best avoided.
It begs the question: what causes most release errors?
The above North Pole analogy was designed to self-enlighten shooters, that it takes a lot of finesse to apply pressure through the entire length of pull in a straight manner.
I’m not knocking Brian, if anything I’
ve certainly learned a lot from him, but my take on it is a little different.
I like to think of the pistol as a camera tripod with the main post (aka the trigger) slightly protruding from the base or hub. You’ll still be required to depress the main post plumb to obtain best accuracy but it’s much easier when you have three different legs supporting the base. So let’s try and think of your grip configuration as the leg’s of a tripod.

The front strap and your three fingers that grasp it may be considered as one leg.
The back strap and the lifeline of your palm would be considered another.
And an extremely rigid wrist would be the last element of the tripod’s legs.
Whereby the trigger obviously would be the main post protruding from the hub (gun) which still requires
inline pressure to work effectively.
This is simply a tactile method for
previsualizing where and what should be in proper place before applying trigger pressure. In other words, if one of the three elements
isn’t in perfect relation and pressure with the others … don’t even bother applying pressure to the trigger.
Years ago I had a mentor who insisted that 90% of a good release was the byproduct of a well tuned grip. His take on it was a shooter could never perform a meaningful release unless it was truly mastered. When I call a line it becomes obvious and I’m truly surprised just how many people simply pickup their pistols with their strong hand and go for it.
A firm grip
isn’t enough. A ‘structured’ grip with good feedback from all of the main element’s positions are needed before it’s raised from the bench and a commitment can be made for any trigger pressure, or for that matter, even finger location.
Assuming all three elements are in harmony, then pulling through on the trigger just got a whole lot easier.

That
doesn’t mean classic dilemmas such as jerking the shot or heeling are eliminated, they’re mental failures to be dealt with at another time. But the process of coming smoothly through a typical trigger pull is greatly enhanced. Most of the problems of not being able to smoothly, cleanly and completely come through the entire trigger pull are generally caused by a poor grip. If one of those three main points is week, the gun will be inclined to steer in its direction.
When you dry fire at home take reasonable care to notice your grip and the positive or negative feedback that it can produce. Any one of the three elements that flashes a red warning light requires a shooter to abort even before the gun’s raised. Here’s a tip, making your grip too firm can do two things: the first, it becomes harder to pull through with your trigger finger; and the other is, any grip or follow through failures you might have had in the past might now be masked.
Strive for maximum stability by experimenting with different grip pressures and locations during your dry firing drills. What’s most important is the amount of maintained stability, not the amount of oil you can squeeze out of your grips.
When you hit the sweet spots by having harmony with each leg of the tripod, it becomes much easier to pull through the trigger cleanly for a good release.